Designer Portfolio

Well, that was the Great British summer. However, rather than give in and accept our lot, why not stretch out the season of sunshine with an autumn break? September is a great time to get away for a last ditch attempt to top up your tan before winter sets in. Of course, the artificial lengthening of the summer season can get more life from our fair weather wardrobe but that doesn’t suit everyone. The onset of autumn brings with it the autumnal colours and textures that can make us feel more comfortably covered up. However, if you’re getting away for that bit of sunshine before winter, here’s the Gray & Osbourn guide to what’s hot for your holiday.

The maxi dress has been a big hit this summer and it’s a great way to keep covered up while you’re on the beach. Not only that, it’s the perfect piece to make the transition to evening after a day in the sun. Admittedly, it might not be one small step from sun-lounger to fine dining but by adding some statement jewellery and swapping the flip-flops for stylish sandals, you can hit the bar straight from the beach. When you are choosing your maxi dress, you should go for something in a vibrant animal print; Gil Bret has an ideal example in the Gray and Osbourn collection.

Despite being by the beach or pool side, you can still wear glamorous shoes! A pair of Swarovski crystal embellished wedges or the metallic shimmer of silver or gold gladiator sandals from Angeline Tournier look simply stunning on the sand, as well as the dance floor.

If you want to keep up the most glamorous look of summer, you have to choose a wide brimmed sun hat for your post-summer holiday. Similarly, big sunglasses are still very much in vogue. The basic rule of thumb is to go for large frames that are still on proportion to your face and the darker your colouring, the darker your frames and lenses can be. Aside from looking great, big glasses and wide brimmed hats will help to protect your skin from the sun; an essential part of your skincare regime. That being said, you want to get some colour so keep covered when the day is at its hottest, stay moisturised and wait until the cool of the evening to free you face.

As we discussed in a recent article entitled “Leading the Way”, New York based department store Saks Fifth Avenue has announced that they will soon add a selection of plus-sizes to their designer lines.

This ongoing campaign for the hearts, minds and purse-strings of the ‘real’ woman has taken another turn as not only have Saks gone beyond the size 14, designer Marc Jacobs is reported to be in the process of creating a “plus-size line”. This news surfaced on the Twitter page of Jacob’s associate Robert Duffy, in an attempt to gauge public opinion on such a move.

So, is this best viewed as a bit of a stage whisper? Duffy has tried his best to test the waters without actually committing the label to anything. He has admitted that the garments they released in a US size 14 or 16, a UK 16 or 18, had not performed well. That comes as little surprise to us as it seems to be approached as an afterthought. For starters, no-one likes the phrase ‘plus sizes’.  They’re just ‘sizes’ and fit is the important thing. Regardless of the size, looking good and feeling comfortable is all about finding the right fit for you.

The question of sizing can be a confusing one, that’s why we introduced the Gray and Osbourn Sizing Guide. This allows you to make quick and easy comparisons between our designers’ sizes.  We all know our size and body shape better than anyone else. With that, we know that to one designer we might be a size 14, to another we’re a size 12 and another we’re a size 16. It’s about being comfortable though, not pigeonholed. So, if you want to make a comparison between Basler and Betty Barclay’s idea of a size 14 or be sure that Michele classic fit trousers are going to be long enough, take a look at our guide.

Gina Bacconi, Michele and Gray & Osbourn’s own label have lines available to a British size 26. Many of the designers in the Gray and Osbourn stable have lines available in sizes 8 to 24 or 26. Essentially, size is a matter of choice. Our sizing guide gives you all of the information you need to make an informed choice about the right garment. Regardless of size, fashion is about looking good and feeling comfortable in what you’re wearing, not the number that’s written on the label. It should be all about finding the right fit, not fitting the right size. That’s because, regardless of what you might be inclined to believe from the media, there is no other ‘right size’ than the one that fits you. A Basler size 14 has a bust measurement of 36 inches; a Betty Barclay size 14 has a bust measurement of 37 inches. Which is the right size? Well, you’ll know better than anyone else.

As the first woman openingly showing a pregnancy bump to grace American fashion magazine Vanity Fair’s International Best-Dressed List, Samantha Cameron is certainly not one to allow morning sickness and maternity wear to restrict her style. After all, personal style and fashion sense are each a question of knowing what to wear and that’s about more than following the latest trends. Of course, her fashion credentials are impressive and come as no surprise this side of the pond. She was the Creative Director at Smythson of Bond Street, purveyors of high end stationary and expensive leatherwork, so Mrs Cameron has always known a thing or two about accessorising.

Making her debut on the 2010 International Best-Dressed List, which is regarded by many as an insiders’ guide to the world’s style elite and a who’s who in global fashion, the wife of Prime Minister David Cameron is in illustrious company. Samantha Cameron, featured alongside fellow First Lady Fashionistas Michelle Obama and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. It should be noted that not only are these ladies key influences in the corridors of power but they also determine a great deal of our fashion policy too.

Let’s start with the woman behind the most powerful man on the planet. This is the fourth consecutive appearance on the International Best-Dressed List for Mrs Obama. Already, her influence on the fashion world is being felt quite acutely, having been credited with the revival of the cardigan, the shift dress and whether or not we want to thank her for it, exposed arms. When asked about the type of person that makes the list, Vanity Fair said they were individuals who were fashion leaders, rather than followers. Gray and Osbourn know that this is born out of a confidence in your own sense of style and that is something you grow into. So, if you know that a shift dress works for you, modern expressions of this classic piece will keep you at the forefront of fashion. We’d recommend the elegant shift dress by Helene Berman, which incorporates the finer points of the ‘Michelle Obama’ look; shift dress, black patent belt, short sleeves.

Running a close second to Michelle Obama, with three entries in the Best Dressed list, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy owes her status as a fashionista to an altogether sultrier look. That being said, she has reined in the rebellious, super-model chic that was a signature of her younger days and instead employs a more demure, sophisticated style these days. Again, the shift dress features prominently, so think Gina Bacconi and Fenn Wright Manson. She will rarely  go above a kitten heel these days too, most often choosing flats for state visits. A pair of Angeline Tournier Ballerina flats are ideal for a special occasion especially if you’re going to be on your feet for an extended period of time.

Shaping up to be the hottest trend for the autumn season is curves. The womanly figure has been enjoying resurgence of late, with TV drama ‘Mad Men’ inspired fashions and a more voluptuous physique are key to capturing the look. The undisputed champion of this is Christina Hendricks, who plays Joan Holloway in ‘Mad Men’ and was recently voted the best looking woman in America in a poll of 10,000 women for Esquire magazine.

Now we’re into August, the fashion industry turns its attention directly to the autumn season. That means we can start to tone down the vibrant summer colour palette and go for more earthy autumn tones. It also signals the return of layering fabrics and textured materials that is often missing from our summer wardrobe. These qualities are definitely the friend of the more curvy figure. As we discussed in an earlier article, “Dressing the Hourglass Figure”, you should look for pieces that accentuate the balance between your bust and hips. You should also emphasise your waist but remember, avoid anything that divides top and bottom. Think smooth, flowing lines that work with your curves.

When you are looking for a dress that captures some of that sultry 60’s glamour, satin can be a wonderfully flowing and tactile material. However, it is renowned for not being particularly forgiving when it comes to those problem areas. Start with a foundation of body-shaping lingerie that will skim over the pieces that make you feel self conscious. Then look for satin dresses that incorporate features designed to accentuate the positives, while hiding the parts you don’t want to show. Designers Gina Bacconi and Bernshaw have used delicate ruching around the waist and slimming lines around the bust to ensure that you feel comfortable yet confident in their satin dresses.

As we move towards autumn and it starts to get a bit chillier, start by bringing in some layering to your outfit which will  add warmth and texture. In keeping with the resurgence in Mad Men’s 60’s style, draping a cardigan over your shoulders can provide that chic finishing touch to almost any autumnal outfit. The Gerry Weber range has a few beautiful examples that can work every day or for that evening occasion.

A pleated skirt is a signature piece of resurgent retro glamour and best of all it’s a great garment for covering up problem areas. The pleats can help to conceal your tummy without adding too much extra bulk. By flaring from the hip, it can make you waist smaller in comparison too. Gelco and Basler each have some great examples for the autumn season.

A recently published article in the New York Times titled, “Aging Gracefully, the French Way” put forth the notion that if anyone knows how to stay stylish with age, it’s the French. Citing a 46 year old Juliette Binoche and a 66 year old Catherine Deneuve, the article suggested that they had a keen grasp of the fashions that keep us looking fabulous without any crass attempts to deny or disguise the aging process. That being said, it is also of note that this is a very deliberate action on their part. This is neither a desperate attempt to stay forever young, nor a surrender to times’ harsh advances. It’s about adapting your own sense of style and continually updating it to find a look that grows with you. As the archetypal French fashionista Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion fades, only style remains the same”.

The article makes reference to diet, echoing the sentiments of the international bestseller, “French Women Don’t Get Fat.” However, in addition to the longstanding and ever important lesson of eating right, there is an acknowledgement of the fact that French women are not renowned for exercise. Promenading is the most seemly way for a sophisticated woman to stay in shape and what better way than to take in a few of your favourite boutiques on route?

Never underestimate the power of understatement. Neutral colours like black, cream, navy and brown needn’t look uninspired. It’s a question of wearing what works for you and doing so with the

confidence that comes from experience. Designer Eugen Klein uses neutral tones to great effect but the most important factor associated with wearing predominantly neutral colours is how you employ an element of accenting colour. This is how to keep your look contemporary and the most effective way is to incorporate colour through the clever use of accessories.

With a foundation of classic, neutral pieces, your accessories allow you to bring a sense of your personality to your outfit. To quote Coco Chanel once again, “Fashion is architecture: it is a matter of proportion”, that means balance. Top off your look with a trilby by Helene Berman or a subtle agate pendant by Cavendish French. This is also your opportunity to bring in something a bit more eye catching for evenings out.

Keeping in touch with the classics are key to a sophisticated look. The signature trench by Gray and Osbourn is a prime example. Pieces like that are not only timeless, but are ageless. Along with a well tailored pencil skirt or a crisp white shirt these are wardrobe staples for women of all ages.

One of the leading department stores has recently taken a huge step forward in the fashion industry, renowned US store Saks Fifth Avenue has made a decision to start selling plus-seized women’s wear from some of their top designer brands. This is a great advance in the fashion industry and is displaying a refreshing positive attitude to how the industry views women’s body and changing the way they are perceived. Saks are promoting this change in opinion and helping to show that there is a wide range of body types and every brand no matter how high end luxury they are should all start to cater for every type of shape.

The American department store, which  has a reputation for being an essential shopping destination for all fashion followers visiting New York, stocks a wide range of well known designers from Chanel, Dolce Gabbana, Fendi and Yves Saint Laurent all of which have been thought to be a part of this proactive change. For the autumn winter collection these high end designer brands will stock some of their pieces up to a UK size 20-22.

Saks have issued a statement that they are proud to be leading the way in meeting the needs of their valued clients. Here are Gray and Osbourn we have also been part of this movement and feel we have always lead the way by offering a wide range of designer brands in sizes 8- 26. At Gray and Osbourn we have always felt it was important that every woman no matter what her shape or size should be able to wear the clothes she desires.

Many women can feel excluded and isolated by certain fashion brands who only stock up to a size 16 or even if they do stock larger sizes they tend to be in short supply which can become frustrating. However there is a change in attitude towards sizes and this is perhaps best demonstrated with fashion bible Vogue launching the Vogue curvy website that provides great tips and advice on fashion for curvy women. The website displays models in the latest looks and tends from top designers all available in larger sizes.

Gray and Osbourn have always been proud to stock a wide range of sizes through out its collection. Our new autumn collection has a fantastic range of outfit’s available including the beautiful Betty Barclay box jacket in sizes 10-22 and the sexy Gina Bacconi bodice dress in size 10–20. No matter what your style or shape here at Gray and Osbourn we have something for everyone.

Strangely, the last time serious consideration was given to the midi, Britain was enduring a period of relative financial instability. That was the 1970s and along with the three-day week, the British economy was facing high rates of inflation and a bit of a mini-midi-maxi crisis. Even more strangely, before that the historic precedent for the mid-calf hemline had been set in the 1930s, another period of invasive recession. Should we have forecast this return to favour for the midi when we were in the grip of the credit crunch? Perhaps that’s reading too much into the cyclical recurrence of the midi trend.

The midi hemline has a distinct air of sophisticated restraint that seems to rally against almost all of the over-the-top trends and revealing pieces of out there. In fact, it does feel that it’s verging on an almost radical departure, which is a strange thing to say about something which places itself so firmly in the middle-ground. The graceful mid-length is set to be a fashion feature because it fills a void between two extremes.

You have no-doubt been struck, as we were, when flicking through fashion magazines and looking at celebrity snaps, just how rare it is to see evening wear that is suitable to women of every age. Long gowns are still the reserve of the red carpet function. For a time, this did generate a sense that the only way to distance oneself from the mini-skirted, headline-grabbing celebrities was to go to take the hemline to the other extreme. This isn’t a question of age, rather one of agenda.

Taking our lead from a quite different kind of red carpet clientele, at the nuptials of Victoria, Crown Princess of Sweden, were covered by the Swedish ‘Hello!’ and essentially managed to put the standards, or lack thereof, of the standard celebrity event into the shade. Interestingly, it was the evening’s matriarchs who managed to comprehensively outshine their younger counterparts in the fashion stakes. European style luminaries like Queen Rania of Jordan, Princess Rosario of Bulgaria and Princess Letizia of Spain looked somewhat immature and insubstantial in comparison to the mother of the bride, Queen Silvia of Sweden.

The elegant compromise that is the midi hemline is not the reserve of any particular age-bracket but a classic piece that transcends a lot of our modern sensibilities and with that, manages to distance itself from either end of the hemline spectrum. Its return to the catwalk is being championed by designers who are renowned for their union of classic styles with modern executions. For example, Chanel has re-worked their tweed skirt suit into a new silhouette for the autumn season. The ongoing momentum that the midi skirt trend is enjoying will continue to gain traction into the winter. When putting together an outfit, think mid calf length, flared midi-skirt paired with a cropped jacket and just over mid calf length, mid heeled boots. It’s an exercise in layering and redefining proportion. A graduated silhouette is a key look for the season and the midi is right in the middle of it.

August is upon us and that means that the warm summer sunshine is becoming an increasingly rare commodity. Of course, it would be great to think we were jetting off to sunnier climes before battening down the hatches for the wet and wild winter months but as ever, there may be some budgetary constraints. Ultimately, your desired destination is going to shape your holiday wardrobe but to what extent would you actually curtail your overseas ambitions in order to afford the outfits?

In a recent article from the Mail Online, entitled “Confessions of a fashionista: I can’t afford to jet off somewhere exotic AND buy a fabulous holiday wardrobe,” it was argued that some kind of compromise between destination and wardrobe should be reached. As everyone is feeling the post-recession pinch, the staycation has really grown in popularity. Taking your holiday in the UK probably means that you won’t be packing your beachwear but you will still need to pack a holiday wardrobe that fits the kind of trip that you’ll have.

Getting out into the fresh air and wide open spaces is great for your health, both mentally and physically. We’re really quite spoiled for areas of natural beauty in the UK too; walking in the Lake District and boating the Norfolk Broads are just some of the options you have for a Great British staycation. All of the options give you ample opportunity to add to your summer wardrobe but you really need to know what kind of holiday you’re going to have before you shop for the wardrobe. Some might say that in the finest tradition of the British summer holiday, you need to start by thinking about a waterproof.

However, striving to stay focussed on the sunny side of British summertime, there are some basic wardrobe additions that you should bear in mind when shopping for your staycation. In addition to that ubiquitous mac, a pair of boots will ensure you’re ready for anything when taking in the majesty of the British countryside. It was interesting to note that during this summer’s festival season, the usual mud-bath that makes trendy patterned willies the hottest summer statement simply didn’t emerge. Instead, ladies’ leather boots have been the fashion savvy choice everywhere; from town galas to Glastonbury.

Should the August weather take a turn for the worse and decide to rain on your parade, an indoor contingency plan is a great idea – wardrobe-wise, of course. There’s no shortage of stylish boutique hotels in the UK and should it get a bit wet out there, you can always stay warm, dry and chic indoors. Ultimately though, when it comes to preparing the ideal capsule wardrobe for holidaying in the UK, you really better be ready for anything.

So, as is always the case with a capsule wardrobe, the essence is in the adaptability. A classic mac will always pull an outfit together nicely, whether that’s jeans and a smart top or a floaty summer frock. The combination of a flowing dress and a chunky knit cardigan is ideal for changeable weather. Layers, generally speaking, are the way to go if you don’t know what kind of weather to expect. However, when you’re packing for holiday and space is at a premium, you can be reluctant to pack too many. However, artful combinations can give you numerous outfits from a limited number of pieces.

It doesn’t take us long to find something to gripe about in Britain. Even on a sunny summer’s day, we can still take issue with the weather. After all, what are you meant to wear to work when the weather is stifling? Obviously, there is some kind of dress code that you’ll need to adhere to but it tends to be defined by what’s socially acceptable rather than by any hard and fast set of rules. There are some things which have become rules, even though not everyone seems to have caught on. For men left to their own devices, socks with sandals springs to mind. Another would be the short-sleeved shirt with a tie look on anyone other than an airline steward. Dressing for work when it’s hot and sunny can be a tricky business; if you’re comfortable you might well be more productive but will you be taken seriously?

First of all, for those who steadfastly stick to their work wardrobe regardless of the temperature should remember that there’s something suspicious about sweaty people. No-one really wants to wear black tights in the height of summer but bare legs don’t always pass muster. There is no denying that the rules defining appropriate work wear are a lot more relaxed now than they were in the past. For example, in a lot of workplaces, Friday’s are a little bit more casual. However, there is the concern that the more freedom people are given, the more they’ll take advantage.

There are a great many people who are simply more worried about their immediate personal comfort than what might be deemed right or proper. It’s about judging the situation and tailoring your outfit to suit. To some, this is simply a sign of good manners. Being polite and courteous to people extends to your clothes.

So, what makes for appropriate office wear comes down to context. In more creative industries, summery frocks, no tights and sandals would be perfectly respectable. In the City, you would be advised to go for something monochrome for summer 2010, sticking to sleek tailoring and shift dresses. Don’t underestimate the difference that wearing lighter fabrics can make. You can stick to the same style that you’re comfortable in at work but make it suit the weather. If you’re trousers and a shirt, try going for something very light, like unlined mohair and a blouse. If you like to wear something well tailored but don’t want to feel too stuffy, a crepe silk dress with long sleeves or even a shorter, ruffled cap sleeve will look extremely smart while staying cool and comfortable.

You do have to bear in mind with a dress that the majority of professional offices will expect nylons, even in the height of summer. Instead of ditching the summer dress or risking the rolled eyes of colleagues, go for ultra sheer tights during the summer. When it comes to footwear, flip-flops just don’t give off an aura of professionalism but backless or open-toed shoes can be a great compromise and still smart. Test the waters with a conservative peep-toe if you’re not sure.

Admittedly, we are not renowned for our warm summer’s evenings in the UK. As a result, we have developed quite an affinity with an often ignored fashion item. In countries with more fluxuating temperate, there may be less of a distinction between a summer coat and any other but it’s certainly not something which is given a lot of attention by the fashion industry. Although we hang on dearly to the ideal of the delicate summer dress, we’ve all been to too many barbeques, garden parties and marquee based gatherings to overlook or undervalue the summer coat.

The summer coat is something that goes beyond the quintessential mackintosh. That’s because it’s not just about fending off the odd summer shower; the summer can actually be quite chilly. Functions in unheated marquees and weddings in drafty churches are just a few of the occasions where you’ll need to look fabulous and seasonal, while keeping the cold at bay. We all readily acknowledge the importance of the winter coat. It’s an investment piece that we know we’ll get a lot of wear from. With a summer coat though, there seems to be an undercurrent of defeatism associated with investing in a piece that essentially, you hope not to wear.

As we are approaching the turn of season, you’ll likely get less wear out of your summer coat. However, you will be able to find beautiful summer coats from top European designers like Betty Barclay and Gina Bacconi on sale. As a well tailored summer coat should be viewed as lasting an investment as your winter coat, you shouldn’t shy away from picking something up that will last you through the autumn season and then next year and beyond. There are a few things that we would recommend though. You have to think about the colour palette. As wearable as it is, black just isn’t a summer colour. Never fear though, as you’ll always be able to work it into your autumn wardrobe.

The trench coat, mac and parka may not be suitable for more formal occasions but their endless wearability still makes them a smart buy in the summer sales. At Gray and Osbourn, we have our own designs on these summer weight wardrobe staples, as well as others by Betty Barclay and Easy Comfort. For something more formal though, Gina Bacconi, Chesca and Basler have summer jackets on sale at the moment that would make excellent investment pieces, seeing you through the autumn and summer seasons to come.